Global Wanderer

22/4/25 – 23/4/25

Our overnight train from Termez pulled into Samarkand in the early hours of the morning, leaving me with a fair few hours to spare before my train to Bukhara (Dale was staying in Samarkand for a few days instead). There were still around 2 hours until sunrise, and so, after I dropped my bags off at the luggage storage in the railway station, we took a Yandex to Samarkand’s most famous site, the Registan complex. Given the time of day, it was completely empty – and it was a real treat to watch the sun rise over the glittering domes!

Historic Samarkand in the pre-dawn hours

As the sun rose, cafes and mini-markets began to open, and so we began walking towards the train station’s vicinity, looking for somewhere to get breakfast. I discovered a spot – Like Cafe – where we tucked into some much-needed fresh food and coffee. Afghanistan had been incredible, but there are some huge differences with its northern neighbour – seeing paved roads traversed by electric buses and cafes with card readers almost felt like a culture shock all over again!

Electric buses in Samarkand!

I said my goodbyes to Dale, and headed into Samarkand Station, boarding the morning Afrosiyob train to Bukhara (luckily, there were seats still available when I booked a few days before – the Afrosiyob can sometimes sell out well in advance). This was my third visit to Uzbekistan’s desert oasis of Bukhara – my first trip in 2022 was during the height of summer, and the follow-up in 2023 was in the depths of winter, which meant that this was the first time I had come fully face-to-face with Uzbekistan’s rapidly-growing tourism industry. The crowds at Samarkand Station were large, with people speaking a wide variety of languages – showing that the country’s tourism campaign was clearly working. In fact, one lost tourist approached me and asked if I lived in Uzbekistan before asking me for help with purchasing a ticket, and a group of English tourists asked me for help finding an ATM.

Finally, the crowds of people began to board the train, and soon enough, we were speeding through desert en route to Bukhara.

Boarding the Afrosiyob in Samarkand

After arriving in Bukhara, I took a Yandex into the Old Town, where I had booked a room for the night at a new place called Minzifa. This hotel, like many others in Bukhara’s centre, is housed in a lovely old building, and the rooms are beautifully crafted with traditional furnishings – it really was a lovely place to stay!

My room at the beautifully traditional Minzifa Hotel

After getting a quick shower (my first proper shower since Kabul, and the first actual HOT shower I’d managed to have all trip!), I headed down to Lyabi Havuz to catch up with my friend Sabrina, who had almost finished up her degree, and is now working as a tour guide – we actually ran into a few people she had been guiding around the city in the last few days, which was quite funny! We ended up going for a walk through the mazy streets of Bukhara – every time I come back, I’m reminded of how much I like this place!

That evening, I headed to a cafe just outside of the Old Town, Sitora, where I ate a large bowl of kavurma laghman. I must admit, after the food I’d eaten in Pakistan and Afghanistan, laghman noodles were absolutely a welcome change!

After dinner, I wandered over to the Kaylon Minaret – the square beautifully illuminated as always! What I couldn’t get over, however, was the sheer number of tourists! Even throughout the day, the streets of Old Bukhara were absolutely packed – obviously it was high season, which I hadn’t yet experienced in Uzbekistan, but it was also clear that the country’s enormous tourism campaign was paying dividends.

Chor Minor, and the Kalyan Minaret at night

I woke up early the following day to catch Sabrina one last time for coffee – savouring the hour-long walk in the morning sunshine. I had booked a seat on the midday Afrosiyob back to Samarkand (amazingly managed another last-minute seat!), and so after our coffee, we headed back to the Old Town, where I collected my bag, and hopped into a Yandex bound for the railway station.

The streets of the Old Town during my morning walk

Bukhara is a beautiful city, from the history-steeped walls of old town buildings, to the Soviet constructions on the outskirts of town, the place is full of character and life – I’m sure I’ll be back again!

Bukhara Railway Station in the midday sun