Global Wanderer

12/12/24

We had decided before arriving in Serbia to take a day trip to Novi Sad, Serbia’s second-largest city, and capital of the autonomous Vojvodina region. After departing from Belgrade’s brand-new (and unfinished) railway station, on the fast, comfortable, double-deck SOKO train, we found ourselves quickly trundling through the Serbian countryside en-route to Novi Sad.

Just over a month earlier, tragedy had struck Novi Sad – the roof of the rebuilt railway station had collapsed, killing 16 and injuring another. This incident spawned mass anti-government protests in Serbia (one of which we witnessed in Belgrade).

Novi Sad station – I took this photo whilst we were there. You can see the area where the canopy fell

As a result, the railway station was out of action, and so our SOKO train terminated at Petrovaradin Station, located about a 90 minute walk away from the centre of Novi Sad. It appeared that a free bus service from Petrovaradin existed, but given the weather was good, we decided to walk it, which was a great idea, as we saw some interesting things along the way, including some old houses and streets, and the Government of Vojvodina building, as well as being able to walk across the main bridge into Novi Sad itself.

The fast, double-deck SOKO trains that run to Novi Sad, and the Government of Vojvodina building

Before making it to the city centre, we stopped past the old synagogue – a beautiful Art Nouveau-style building, now used as a cultural centre. It looks closed, but if you walk around the back, you’ll find the guard, who will let you inside for a look around. Built in 1909, the synagogue is full of beautiful details, including incredible stained glass windows – it is certainly worth checking out!

The Novi Sad Synagogue

Finally, we made it to the city centre, where we stopped for a much-needed morning coffee. One of the first buildings we decided to check out was the H&M store – yes, you read that correctly! Housed in a 19th century luxury building, this particular H&M store is home to some ornate flooring, beautiful frescoes, and marble columns – all original components of the building!

The strangely-impressive H&M!

We also stopped off at the Bishop’s Palace, home of the Orthodox Bishop, and the very impressive St George’s Cathedral – the star piece here being the fresco of a starry night sky in the interior of the cupola.

Novi Sad’s central square; the interior of one of the many impressive churches in the city; the Bishop’s Palace; and St George’s Cathedral

View of Novi Sad’s central square

Novi Sad was certainly a highlight from a street art perspective, with some very impressive pieces to be found during our walk around the city.

Some of the interesting street art we came across in Novi Sad!

As the sun set over Serbia’s second city, we headed back over the river to visit Petrovaradin Fortress. The late-17th century structure towers over the Danube, looking out to Novi Sad, is also home to the famous Petrovaradin Fortress clock, and some of the best lookout points in the city. Given it was now dark, the fortress grounds were practically empty, and we had free run of the place.

The grounds of the fortress, and the view out over Novi Sad at night

Finally, it was time to head back to the station to take the train back into Belgrade – the walk taking significantly less time given we were already on the other side of the river! Novi Sad is really interesting – and with quieter streets, less hustle and bustle, it is a definite contrast with Belgrade.